Canyonlands National Park – Your Ultimate Guide for the Trip – Island on the Sky
The last National Park which we visited on our trip and in Utah is Canyonlands National Park, which preserves a major area of the Colorado Plateau, Colorado River, and its tributaries. The Canyonlands National Park is so vast and one day is not enough to explore the entire park and its wilderness. We had one day to explore the park and we decided to explore the only Island on the Sky – the most accessible region of the National Park. If you love Grand Canyon, then you will definitely fall in love with Canyonlands. And the bonus point is one can enjoy the wilderness of the canyon without the disturbance of the crowd. Yes, Canyonlands is underrated compared to the Grand Canyon. Canyonlands is very vast and one need high clearance 4WD to explore all the districts in the park.
Canyonlands National Park – What is it?
Canyonlands National Park is located in southeastern Utah near to the town of Moab. The park preserves 337,598 acres of colorful canyons, mesas, buttes, fins, arches and spires in the heart of Utah’s high desert. Water and gravity have played an important role in sculpting the layers of rock into the rugged canyons which we see in the park today.
Canyonlands National Park – What is it known for?
As the name says it all, the park is known for CANYONS! The park preserves the beauty of the canyons in its four districts, which are divided by the Green and Colorado Rivers. The park is divided into four districts
- Island in the sky
- The Needles
- The Maze
- Rivers
Island in the Sky: Island in the Sky is the easiest district to visit in the park with the paved scenic drive offering spectacular views. Each overlook on the path offers a different perspective to the park’s landscape.
The Needles: The Needles forms the southeast corner of Canyonlands and was named for the colorful spires of Cedar Mesa Sandstone that dominate the area. Most parts of the district are explored only on foot and using high clearance four-wheel drive.
The Maze: The Maze is the least accessible district of Canyonlands. The Maze is Canyonlands at its wildest, one of the nation’s most remote areas. The Maze itself is a 30-square mile puzzle in sandstone.
Rivers: Colorado and the Green Rivers wind through the heart of Canyonlands, cutting through layered sandstone to form two deep canyons. In stark contrast to the hot, sunny desert above, the river corridors are remarkably green, shady, and full of life.
Both rivers are calm upstream of The Confluence, ideal for canoes, kayaks and other shallow water craft. Below The Confluence, the combined flow of both rivers spills down Cataract Canyon with remarkable speed and power, creating a world-class stretch of whitewater.
FAST FACTS:
- Island in the Sky is the most accessible district in the park with a paved path, overlooks, scenic drive, hiking trails and a four-wheel-drive along the White Rim Road
- The Needles offers backcountry experience and the district can be explored on foot by hiking or using four-wheel drive.
- The Maze is the most remote area of the park and requires considerably more time and a high clearance four-wheel drive to visit and explore
- Horseshoe Canyon district is a day use area located Northwest of the Maze and offers a stunning view of American Indian rock art panels
- The rivers in the park can be best explored by flat-water trips on the Green and Colorado rivers or by whitewater trips on the cataract canyon.
- Drinking water is available only in the Visitor Center and food-gas outlets are not available inside the park or nearby the park.
Island in the Sky – Most Important Things to do:
The entire mesa top of the district can be visited via the 34-mile scenic drive. Island in the Sky is a broad mesa wedged between the Green and Colorado River and is Canyonlands’ observation tower from where you can see the wilderness of the canyons. The White Rim road is closest to the mesa’s edge and is a nearly continuous sandstone bench 1200 feet below the island provides backcountry experience and accessibility to the canyons. The best way to explore Island in the sky is to drive across the scenic drive and check out from the viewpoints.
- Drive the 34-mile round trip scenic drive
The scenic drive offers pullouts and viewpoints highlighting the perspective of the Canyonlands. Some of the lookouts – Grand View Point, Green River Overlook and Buck Canyon Overlook are accessible to wheelchairs. The Grand View Point Overlook provides the grand view of the entire rim of the canyon and the rivers. The Green River Overlook provides the view of the Green River in between the canyons.
- Hike to Mesa Arch
The most famous and a must visit feature in the Canyonlands is Mesa Arch. We would have seen the arch as the background image of your computer and would have been guessing what it is. The answer is Mesa Arch. Mesa Arch is a spectacular stone arch perched at the edge of a cliff with vast views of canyons, rock spires and the La Sal Mountains in the distance. It is an easy half-mile hike to the arch. The arch is a famous spot for photography and looks fantastic during sunrise. The sun rising in the east behind Mesa Arch illuminates the underside of the arch and brightens the arch with orange-red hues.
- Grand View Point Overlook
The Grand View Point overlook is the southernmost point in the Island on the Sky and offers views of the White Rim, features in the Maze and Needles. A short paved walk from the parking point leads to the first viewpoint and an additional hike of one mile leads to the second viewpoint.
- Drive along the White Rim
If you are an experienced driver and if you have a couple of days to explore the district, then drive along the White Rim road. The 100 mile White Rim road loops around and below the Island in the Sky mesa top and provides expansive views of the surrounding area. Even under favorable weather conditions, the White Rim road is moderately difficult for the high clearance 4 wheel vehicle and requires extreme caution. During high water conditions on the Green River, sections of road on the west side can flood, making a complete loop impossible.
FAST FACTS:
- A high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle (low range) is required for the White Rim Road.
- Towing charges are very expensive. People caught in the backcountry with disabled vehicles can expect towing fees in excess of $1,000.
- You must have a permit for the day use and for the overnight trip.
The Needles – Most Important Things to do
The Needles district is 4 hours’ drive away from the Island in the Sky, hence plan accordingly.
- Drive the scenic ride
The scenic drive continues 6.5 miles past the visitor center, ending at Big Spring Canyon overlook. There are several pullouts for short hiking trails, viewpoints, and a picnic area. There are 4 short, self-guided trails along the scenic drive. These trails are mostly level except for the Cave Spring which has two ladders.
- Drive the 50 miles challenging backcountry road
If you have more than a day and have high clearance 4 wheel drive, then drive along the 50 miles of challenging backcountry roads and explore many natural features. Inexperienced drivers should not attempt these roads. There is a high risk of vehicle damage, and towing costs usually exceed $1,000. And you should have a day-use permit to Elephant Hill, Horse Canyon/Peekaboo, and Lavender Canyon roads and night permit for overnight backcountry trips.
The Maze – Most Important Things to do
The Maze is remote and all roads are unpaved. You will need a four-wheel-drive vehicle, more time and a greater degree of self-sufficiency to visit The Maze. The trip might take anywhere from three days to a week or more.
- Drive along the backcountry road
- Horse Shoe Canyon
Horseshoe Canyon contains several intriguing rock art panels, including “The Great Gallery”, which features remarkable life-sized figures and intricate designs. It requires a strenuous roundtrip hike of 7 miles and usually requires a full day
Rivers
Rivers are often hidden from view by the complex contours of the canyon and the launch locations are on the Green River at Green River State Park, Ruby Ranch, and Mineral Bottom. Local agents provide a variety of guided river trips, ranging from half a day to week-long trips.
FAST FACTS:
- Butte – A hill or very small mountain that is flat-topped and steep sides all around.
- Fault – A fracture in rock layers along which movement has occurred.
Our Experience:
We just had a day to explore the Canyonlands and it was our last National Park on the trip. We decided to visit only the Island in the Sky. We drove along the scenic drive and visited the Grand Viewpoint overlook. Then, we drove to the remaining viewpoints. We hiked to the Mesa Arch and that’s the most beautiful feature in the entire district. A short hike and climb lead to this stone arch which offers a spectacular view of the La Sal Mountains through it. Since we visited during the weekday, the entire park was less crowded and we had the entire arch for ourselves. Don’t miss the view of the canyons at the visitor center. The view from the Whale rock is offers a view of the surrounding countryside. We also hiked to the two viewpoints in the Grand View Point overlook. The entire walk provides panoramic views of the entire canyon rim.
The mere look of the White Rim road from the canyon overlook will shock you and at the same time surprise you too. The road is a mud road and it is very narrow. The road follows along the edge of the canyon, provides you the closest view of the canyons, buttes and Green river. Ensure to attempt driving along the rim only if you are an experienced driver and has a high clearance 4 wheel drive. There is no way to back up your vehicle if you want to drive back and towing expenses are very high if you are stuck on the road. And also it takes sometimes days to get the required help.
While the Canyonlands offers a fantastic view of the Canyons, the state park – Dead Horse Point near to the National Park offers horseshoe view of the Colorado River and the Canyon rim. The Dead Horse Point Overlook is a must-see spot in the park and offers breathtaking views of the Colorado River and the adjacent canyon country which is 2,000 feet above.
As we are impressed by the gorgeous views of the Dead Horse Point State Park, we visited the state park. The park has an entrance fee of $15. Visit the park only if have more time to explore. We wanted to view the canyon rim from the opposite side of the Canyonlands, hence we visited Dead Horse Point State Park and moreover, the park offers closer views of buttes and Colorado River.
Dead Horse Point State Park
According to legends, the Dead Horse Point was once used as a corral for wild mustangs roaming the mesa. Cowboys rounded up these horses, herded them across the narrow neck of land and onto the point. The neck, which is only 30 yards wide, was then fenced off with branches and brush, creating a natural corral surrounded by precipitous cliffs. Cowboys then chose the horses they wanted and for reasons unknown, left the other horses corralled on the waterless point where they died of thirst within view of the Colorado River, 2000 feet below.
Things to do:
Drive the scenic way in the park. That’s the most fun thing to do in the park. We visited the park around evening and we drove along the scenic way in the park. The main overlooks in the park are the Neck and the Dead Horse Point Overlook. The Dead Horse Point Overlook is the most visited and most photographed part in the park. Both of these overlooks doesn’t require any hiking and have a paved path for the overlooks.
We drove directly to the Dead Horse Point Overlook and the view from the overlook is just out of the world. The overlook provides the panoramic view of the Colorado River Canyon. The Grandview looks down on the Needles and maze sections of Canyonlands National Park, as well as the Green and Colorado River.
We walked along the cairns in the West Rim trail to Meander Overlook and Shafer Canyon Overlook. One can view the Horseshoe bend of the Colorado River and the deeply carved path into the ancient rock layers throughout the overlooks in the West Rim Trail.
With the Dead Horse Point Overlook, our visit to the 7 National Parks has come to an end. And it has been the most rewarding experience and we returned to Salt Lake City with beautiful and refreshing memories, clear mind and rejuvenated the soul. Though I never wanted to return back from canyons, all good things must come to an end. Having said that, I returned to the real world after a week admiration of Nature and her majesty. My love to visit National Parks has grown multifold and someday, I wish to visit all the National Parks.
Let’s hope my dream comes true and wish me good luck guys. If you have visited Canyonlands, then do share your experiences with me. I would love to hear your suggestions about the park for my next trip, in case if I visit for the second time.
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Thanks,
Karthi
Facts gathered from the Park Website and the Pamphlets. The pictures in the post are clicked by me. The content and the pictures in the post belongs to the author. Reproduction and distribution of the content/pictures without prior permission from the author are prohibited.
